The novel is a kind of cultural travelog centering around Seamus O’Leary, 22, who “grew up in Northern Ireland, in a fishing town northwest of Belfast, named Ballycastle.” As the Sixties wane and violence of “The Troubles” comes ever closer to his home, Seamus is restless.
His father, his “Da,” doesn’t understand his leaving—what is wrong with Sea? (“They call me Sea,” he tells his new southwest Irish friend Garret, whom he meets in Seattle. “It’s spelled like the ocean … but we pronounce it … like ‘hey’ with a ‘sh’ in front.”)
The story is full of fortuitous encounters, like with Elizabeth, a “food critic specializing in Mexican food,” whom he meets in a Tijuana restaurant.
Here Sea is introduced to “the little folded things.” Tacos. “This is so good,” he tells Elizabeth, “I don’t want to put it down.” Much later he tells her: “I have a theory that if people can taste the food of other people, the world will be a much better place. The first time I had tacos in Tijuana, it opened my eyes to Mexico.”
Elizabeth responds that things are more complex than that. “There are Americans who eat Mexican food, but have no idea who Mexicans really are…. If someone thinks food or any other single thing is going to make the world a more peaceful, informed place—I think that is naïve.”
But food does play a big part in the narrative as Sea grows in cultural understanding. Marrying and settling in La Paz, in the Mexican state of Baja California Sur, still feeling unmoored, Sea and his family, and many others, are hit by a devastating storm, a “Chubasco.” It will change his life forever.
As Findlay notes at the end, “For me, food, place, and people are a nexus linked to an ever expanding diverse human universe, a kind of cosmic taco if you please.”